1998 Yamaha Warrior 350 Wiring Diagram – I recently got a 96 fighter that ran. Has good compression and crank but can’t get spark. Everyone who tried to make it before me didn’t do the best job. I can’t find a wiring diagram anywhere on the internet for this particular year 1996. Can anyone help bro with my pm. Thanks to everyone who entered. I will start a more in depth thread soon.
I believe the problem is behind the cdi box near the solenoid. Especially the red and white wires and the blue and white wires of the small electromagnetic teeth. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am almost losing my mind with this. I can upload any image that helps to understand this.
1998 Yamaha Warrior 350 Wiring Diagram
There is a manual with diagrams on the sticker above and here is a link to the manual, good link, you may find a dangerous warning, but ok, check it out tonight www.mdmotors.ru/netcat_files/213/ 177 / warrior. pdf
Rick’s Yamaha Yfm 350 400 Warrior 1993 2001 Stator Pick Up Coil Assy Oem 21 911
I’ve seen one but haven’t seen it in this guide for years. I think I got it now
The link I posted is the actual factory service manual if you need it, but it looks like you are on the right track
Don’t burn it, they’re pretty easy to diagnose if it wasn’t Frankenstein. you should have a step by step rule from the manual to diagnose the components and then we can go from there. Give me your best description and I’ll see what I can do.
Well, I can’t get power from the orange cdi wire that goes directly to the ignition coil. Can’t find a spark that’s all I can do. Impulse wheel/receiver wires frayed from left side engine housing and needed to be spliced together. Everything is Chinese for me at this point. Can you message me?
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I suspect it’s a bad stator or coil/pulse. The first thing you need to do is fix the electrical components inside or outside. Get yourself a good digital meter and do an ohms test on the pickup/source, stator and main coil. cleaning the area and installation for the main bed. Make sure the small black wire cut from the black battery wire makes a good connection to the harness. I assume the belt is powered by the crank motor and switches. I believe the orange wire you are talking about is the 12 volt pulse and causes the main coil to fire. I’m not positive about it and I think I’ll check myself because it’s too much, but I’m pretty sure. it is possible that it could be permanent and change the ground for the pulse, but I doubt that the problem always ends somewhere in the stator. cdi failure is very rare in a fighter, unless someone swaps it for one of the big torque boxes and uses a chinese shock, these don’t last very long. These machines are notorious for eating up the stator, my theory is that they build up a ton of heat and Yamaha didn’t use enough heat wire and the heat destroyed them. the ones I had to replace, I used a rectifier unit and that fixed the problem
Starting over, I go through all the tools. Steering wheel switch except for the lights as they work fine. I removed the engine kill switch, cleaned and sanded it. Also make sure spring was “spring” LoL. I noticed that the previous owner connected the black/yellow to black and cut the short red to brown. Why? Red/white doesn’t work so I don’t know why my push start doesn’t work anymore. It worked when I got the quad, but since I opened it so many times, it might need to be put back together. Any idea why these wires are connected this way. I think B/Y -B is looking at the parking brake. What do you think???
I don’t know why it does this and believe it or not, these are parts of the factory. This is why fighters have so many wiring problems. I think you are on the right track for appliance repair. hope you can find the switches are a bit expensive. Have you already tried the components?
Well, 2 weeks ago, when I bought something, everything worked. I decided to put the push start back together and it was finished. I went through all the tools again and found 2 main problems with the ignition wires. He did all this. I also removed all the orange wire from the harness and connected a new wire to the mix for the fuel wire from the cdi. I’m warning you because I’m not going to let this thing beat me! Also if you can Cory I have the neutral (green) relay but it didn’t come with the other relay. Is there a cure or something for the bow tie at the moment?
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I’m sure you can pass the relay, but I’m not sure how you can learn the diagram. But all the safety stuff just prevents noise, so in theory if you have power from the cdi key, you should run the big wires to the solenoid and start it.
Update: working on a new color scheme for my plastic today. Study as I go, so far so good.
I’m happy with the results, whatever flaws I have. You will only be covered with some boards and what not. Will update again when everyone is up and running!
Man I have the same problem on my 02, the cut off relay is missing, it won’t close, and the start button I also bypassed the silenoid, can’t get power to the orange wire. Do you know yours yet?
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Newwarriordude said: I’m pretty sure the problem is behind the cdi box near the solenoid. Especially the red and white wires and the blue and white wires of the small electromagnetic teeth. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am almost losing my mind with this. I can upload any image that helps to understand this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk [/QUOTE The yamaha has a neutral switch relay and a starter switch relay, I believe the bright green one is the neutral relay Click to expand…
This is an old thread, you may not get a reply and you can revive the old thread. Please consider making a new wire For this procedure you will need two (2) 12V Bosch type automotive relays which can be found at almost any auto parts store. I refer to R1 and R2 respectively.
2) Place the black plug on the main headlight assembly. This should be a 6 pin cable. Place the Red/White and Red/Black wires. They should be close to each other. Now determine which side of the wire goes to the ECU and which side goes to the switch bars (this is very important because the wrong choice can fry the ECU)
3) On the side of the wire that connects to the switch, cut the R/W and R/B wires, leaving about 4 inches in the plug. Connect the remaining wires of the socket together. This makes the ECU think that the run key is in the ON position.
Handlebar Switch For Yamaha Yfm 350 Bigbear / Moto 4 / Warrior / Wolverine
4) Set aside the wires going to the switch, you will come back to this later. Now let’s configure the relays
11) Connect the red/white wire to the operation switch (the one you disconnected in step 4) above.
12) Extend the Red/Black wire from the Run Switch and ground it (depending on your application, you may want to place a small toggle switch on this line as a switch. This can be useful if you have kids who go into the garage (a Any small switch will work as this circuit only draws about 100mA when the Run button is on)
13) Triple check that all your connections are correct, tight and well insulated. Reconnect the battery, turn the Run key and press the start button and the BEAST comes to life
Cdi Module For Yamaha Warrior 350 Yfm350x 348cc 97 01
Wait a minute. If I understand it correctly, this modification allows you to start the engine without the key. Right? Doesn’t that make the bike too easy to steal?
I would agree, but if you hide the key in Step 12, no one will know. Not saying I like it or not, I still think it’s a pretty cool model.
Or you can turn off one of the buttons under the seat. This is what I want to do. Then it always asks for a key.
Yes, it can be if you are security conscious
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