Bht-6000 Wiring Diagram – I would like to put a new thermostat on the unit but the wiring is very confusing and although I have extensive repair knowledge some wiring and plumbing etc. – I’m not sure about that.
Sorry, you can’t. Unfortunately, the TR2 is a special Worcester product for boilers with excellent starting capability and is not interchangeable with a standard room thermostat. They work in different ways and the wiring is not compatible.
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So if you want to control the on/off and room temperature… you can’t? I read on another forum that Nest can be installed on this central unit, you just have to disable the thermostat setting in the central programming settings.
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It seems silly that the latest way to control my heat, I have to change the boiler!
Really! The problem arises because the TR2 thermostat, rather than a simple on/off switch like other thermostats, is actually part of the main control panel on the front of the boiler, which it communicates with using three wires. I know of several attempts in the past to try to connect an external control directly to the central, but AFAIK nothing worked.
Hive have now flagged on their website that this boiler is not compatible with external property controls:
It doesn’t really match the OP’s Hive. I used the information only to show that the boiler can only be controlled by TR2, and not by other proprietary external controls, Hive / Nest / BHT etc.
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If you need to find a dealer to get the job done, try the local search below, or if you’re doing it yourself, you can find a local supplier. I understand this is not an uncommon question, I’ve already searched, but I’d appreciate some advice on my specific situation please.
That’s fine, because I can cover it in the Peters box I installed. Although this makes me question the position of the other stars. Life is clearly life. But I doubt where the other connection goes. I will add old and new pictures, but this is correct:
Thanks for any clarification. I wouldn’t mind trying this, but I don’t want to blow my boiler or anything, so I want to be sure.
You are on the right track but have just been disconnected from Terminal 1. This connection is in tabular form. I hope my interpretation of the thread color is correct, it’s hard to tell from your picture. However, it is the connected wire that determines its function, not the color of the insulation.
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Then add a jumper wire between the new thermostat terminals 4 (L) and 1 so they are electrically connected.
If you are installing the new thermostat in a metal box, connect the ground wire to the box. If it’s a plastic box, there’s no need for an earth connection, so fold it up securely and put it away.
Hello Steam. Welcome and thank you for your reply. I can do it, I thought. I can pick your mind on 2 things to make sure I understand:
From what I understand, the “dry contacts” (1 and 2 on the new one) should not have voltage, so I don’t contradict you, but I clarify that I have to connect directly (4) to the dry contacts (1), yes?
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And other. Hopefully I can get that today so I’ll be sure to update how I get on.
With the original thermostat, the switch is connected directly to the internal power, and when you think the new switch is “dry” or “no voltage”, the reason is that recently some combi boilers are controlled at 24v and no voltage. allows the thermostat to be connected to either voltage, 230V or 24v. When you want to change the mains voltage, you get it through the connection between terminals (1) and (4).
The doorbell cable is not ideal as you are connecting it to mains voltage and the insulation of the doorbell wire is not mains rated. However, the cable in the link you posted does not have a bell wire and is suitable for mains voltage.
Okay, that makes sense. The switch itself is voltage independent but requires current to control it. I’ll catch that thread – good luck with the wrong url there, glad it will fit. Thanks again and I will update.
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In the past, I’ve cut a few inches off the end of the instrument cable and used a wire from it, or an extension cord, because they often don’t have a plug built into the end.
Rod, if I have to do this, do I need to make sure the wire I’m reusing has a solid core or is that irrelevant? I have a very fine sander in there, but the wire base is not as strong as the product I installed before.
Trunk, Bellata mica. I managed to get it and am working on your advice, can’t thank you enough.
Also on the moon, although the bad news is that due to the difference in the position of the stars, the box does not have enough space to fit comfortably inside the house.
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I’m glad it works. For your safety, please ensure that the ground wire is connected to the metal back box or a metal substitute.
Just a note; I believe the new thermostat is a programmable thermostat, meaning it has built in time and temperature controls. In this case, the existing control/programmer will need to be permanently set to 24/7 to operate the new thermostat.
Whatever timer you have must be set to constant or the new thermostat will not work
If anyone is interested in an update, I still have some finishing work to do on the plaster, but the hole has been drilled and now it connects nicely and has slots.
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The ground is connected to a special screw in a Peters metal box, all other wires are exactly as described in the previous thread.
I have my Drayton programmer next to the boiler as usual, the stats start and tick perfectly and of course the best part is the boiler responds.
I hope someone can help me find a lot and this post is very close to my own problem, I’m trying to do the same thing using almost the same thermostat, the only difference is my old thermostat Only 3 strings are included in my old and new pictures
The current thermostat is installed incorrectly. Terminal 2 has no neutral connection. So you have one live (in T1) one live (in T3) plus land.
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The old stats are purely mechanical, so they will work without neutrals, although the accuracy won’t be as good as it should be. However, the new thermostat is mains powered, so it requires a 230V active and neutral supply.
For future reference, you should really start your own new thread. Removing other people’s posts is against forum rules
Sorry for hijacking the post, this smart thermostat has been bothering me for weeks and the OP has the same setup. So there is no way to configure the wiring to the new thermos as is
If you need to find a dealer to get the job done, try our local search below, or if you’re doing it yourself, you can find a local supplier yourself.
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