Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram

Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram – I have a tractor at home fishing that I have used for 5 or 6 years. I installed it in my ’98 Jeep TJ. Now a “farm truck” (I only plow my own driveway). I occasionally ran into issues where the rover didn’t respond to the controls, but I was always able to get it working again by fiddling with connections, etc.

At this time the rover will not respond to the control unit. I turn on the controller and the red LED is on, but when I turn the controller (up, down, left or right) the light is off. I have no clicks or response at all.

Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram

Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram

I pulled the solenoid and tested it electrically and it’s fine. I loaded and double clicked the “power” post and continued. I checked all the fuses (2 10 amp and 15 and 7.5 amp fuses) and they were checked. Remove and clean both battery terminals (want to check the basics) and the same for positive and negative on the tiller motor.

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After all this I noticed that the 3 port control module would “click” the 11 pin connector between the harness and the rover. It’s very repetitive. The fitting was quite rusty on the inside so I cut it off and connected it with a pipe fitting. This removed the module click, but still no response from the controller except the LEDs.

I tested this by connecting the plow motor directly to the battery and running the motor. The wire from the positive battery terminal goes to the solenoid and also runs the motor. Not sure what to do to diagnose and could definitely use some tips.

Think of a bad power line on the side of a plow or truck. Use your jumper cables to find out.

I agree it’s not the pin, but… the symptom may be a bad wire between ground or positive.

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Thanks for all the replies, Links to other threads are very helpful. Acts like a bad ground or mains lead. I’ll try it tonight when I get home.

When I finally found time to focus on this I started by connecting my jumper from the positive battery terminal to the “hot” side of the solenoid and testing positive. No difference. I did the same thing on the negative side by connecting the battery negative terminal to the tiller motor. No difference. I then proceeded to check the voltage and continuity of the ground connection. I tested the red/yellow wire (pin 1) on the controller connector (the wire that goes from the firewall to the controller by pressing the red wire from the firewall to the fuse box).

It’s about 10 volts here. This raises a red flag; There should be battery voltage here. I checked the battery voltage again and it was over 13.5 volts. I also confirmed that I have ground continuity (pin 3 orange/black).

Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram

As an option I want to remove the isolation module and I’ve read elsewhere on this site that you can jump the red/white wire to do so. After a while I found a place to do this (see chart below for location). It turned out that there was no need.

Fisher Homesteader Series Diagrams From Iteparts.com

I then attached my multimeter to a 7.5 amp fuse and wiggled it so I could monitor the voltage until I saw a response from the meter on the wire. Once the common areas were found, I had to cut the weave in several places to track down the exact location of the damaged wires.

The red/green wire goes through the heavy duty connector to the red/black wire and rusts.

Mr.Markus said: It’s not a pin but… the mark can be grounded or positive. Click to expand… There were no lights on the side of the road yesterday. I went back to the store and tried it and the light came on. Like most of the time for me. That’s a bad thing. Who hooked it up with a cargo light screw and it’s loose.

It was under the original wiring harness, so I think that’s how it came from the factory. I’m not surprised that this point is often missed.

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This is an old thread, you may not receive a reply; You can revive old threads. Please consider building a new harness. Fisher 3 Port 3 Plug Wiring Kit Truck Side Isolation Module (Fis Minute Mount / Homesteader / MM2)

You need to choose the right headlight kit for your truck. Use Fisher Power Match to find the right light wire for your car.

This is a complete truck side wiring kit for straight blade Fisher plows (like the West!) It is a 3 port isolation module and 3 plug arrangements. If you have 2 plows, you also have to use the side of the plow to use them. You also need to use the controls if you don’t have them. 3-port module of your choice; 63411 Truck Side Electrical Cable; 26345 3-pin control harness, 26357 truck side light, 5794K-1 motor magnet, 22511 power cord, 8291K connector and headlight adapter of your choice to fit your truck. I’d also recommend getting a tube of dielectric grease to protect this connection.

Fisher Homesteader Plow Wiring Diagram

If your plow is a 2-pin system. You will also need this 28053 to convert it to 3-pin.

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Note: Fisher now uses a multiplexed system. If your controller has 4 pins instead of 6 and 2 sockets on the grid instead of 3. This is not the right cable for your rover.

Rear 3 Port 3 Plug Wiring Harness Truck Side Isolation Module (Fits Ultramount / Unimount / Suburban)

Fleet Flex Fisher 3 Port 2 Plug Wiring Kit Isolation Module Truck Side Minute Mount Xtreme V XLS HT Series 2

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