Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram – I have a 2015 Cross Country Traveler with a fuse box installed and I set it to run on switching power. I recently set up my Garmin and that’s it

I’m installing some halogen running lights and would like to set up a separate fuse box and switch that works with the lights.

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

Here is the wiring diagram they come with I would like some advice on how to connect it to my switching power supply fuse box

Dan’s Motorcycle

This will provide switching power to the switch to tell the relay to turn on the battery powered light directly.

If you’ve connected most (all?) of the wires to your fuse box for those of us who put fuse boxes on bikes, then you have power supplied by that fuse box, and before that one or Multiple or all fuse blocks. Slots are triggered by relays so my position is that you can massively simplify the whole process you can:

2) Any part shown in the picture is delivered connected to the battery; your fuse box is powered by the battery

A) Connect the two blue wires of the light to the blue wires in the original diagram, from the switch

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I mean logically, not physically. For example, you could connect these two wires (one in each shade) together, the wires coming from a Posi-Lock switch. Alternatively, if the switch has a male spade lug, you can solder the two blue light wires to the female spade lug, and so on.

B) Hook the orange wire into your original diagram – from the other side of the switch – to open a slot in the fuse box.

C) Hook the ground wire from the lamp hook to the other side of the opening slot in the fuse box.

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

D) Install a properly sized fuse in the slot on the fuse box (5 amps? 10 amps? lamps should come with documentation stating current draw).

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I do this on my current bike (a 2008 Bergmann 650 scooter I bought a few years ago).

And the scooter also has a set of motolits that comes with a relay, a wiring harness and a big switch but, since I already have battery power in the fuse box, it has a relay for the trigger, I don’t need a wiring harness it doesn’t need special is the battery connection. So don’t use the relay or wiring harness that comes with motolite

Here’s a picture of the setup It’s a small room (sort of like a glove box with an open door at the top). You can see the PC-8 on the right, the moto light switch on the left (I usually have it in the ON position, so it’s no problem behind the cubby door – remember, the whole fuse box. It goes off when the bike is off). On the back, on the right, the relay is the entire fuse box (I wrapped it with silicone tape on the red stick itself), and on the left you can see some Wago clip connectors, for example https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222- 413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B07CN59ZX3/?th=1, this is my connector of choice:

Thanks wspollack, exactly what I was looking for, I have a Beaver PC-8 and a 30A 36 relay kit

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Item # PC8 and 30ARK36, which I installed last year, I think I can do something similar to what you have there since it already has relays etc.

I don’t see anything wrong, it’s simple, but I don’t know if it’s the fuse box or the circuit rating, or the HID or LED lights or anything that might affect the current draw or other electronics.

All I can mention is that you don’t need to run the ground cable all the way to the fuse box you can short it to ground on the frame/chassis and reduce the mess a bit.

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

Sorry, I totally disagree with wspollack; the whole point of using a relay is to avoid using the switch’s power wire to supply 12vdc to the switch through the high current conductor of the switch, and then turn on the light from the switch to the relay.

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PDX Laser has shown the gist, and it’s actually not that hard to do; if you run the hot leads directly from the fuse box to the switch, you always have a hot switch (or if the new fuse box doesn’t switch), but bottom line is you Switching more current than you should. If you use a relay – the relay will change the current required by the light, I usually use a 30 amp relay – small enough to fit almost anywhere but still handle the load. I have a relay that’s about 40 amps if you want, but that’s fine for what you’re trying to do

Just because someone does it doesn’t mean it’s the right and proper long-term solution – that’s why the relay was developed.

About the picture of the PDX laser (nice, btw), the only thing I would add is that the wires are what you want: I usually use red for anything running from a battery, and black for ground. I like blue for the hot wire I swap, where it goes into the switch, I use red shrink wrap on the hot end (your fuse box, hot wire switch, etc.) and blue shrink wrap on the output; that way, if I need to Remove a switch and I know which switch is where (it doesn’t matter).

Most relays I use now only have one terminal for switching outputs – not the two the PDX shows, they are yellow. it will light up on the hot side of your running lights

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If you turn on the light like I did (Kuriakin IRC), there is a black lead coming out of the inside – it’s mechanically attached to the aluminum frame under the fairing, where the DL is supported. If you mount it to a rail etc, I would lead the ground to the frame instead of relying on it through the paint on the rail.

Use a wire loom to protect/hide the wires as much as possible and tie them up with ties – everything will look neat and professional!

Kappa says: I have a 2015 Cross Country Adventurer with a fuse box installed and I set it to run on switching power. I recently set up my Garmin and that’s it, I’m installing some halogen running lights and would like to set up a separate fuse box and switch for the lights to work. Here are the wiring diagrams they come with I would like some advice on how to wire this to my switching power supply fuse box See attachment 548477 Click to expand… Does the CCT have a place to mount the switch on the dash? If so, I think I got the correct size on the WD

Motorcycle Headlight Switch Wiring Diagram

Kjlong​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​If so, I think I found the correct size on the WD Click to expand… yes the radio has empty space on the right for the left the hot handle

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Kjlong​​​ says: Sorry, but I totally disagree with Wspollack; the whole point of using a relay is to avoid using the switch’s power wire to supply 12vdc to the switch through the switch’s high current conductor, and then turn the light on from the switch to the relay. PDX Laser has shown the gist, and it’s actually not that hard to do; if you run the hot leads directly from the fuse box to the switch, you always have a hot switch (or if the new fuse box doesn’t switch), but bottom line is you Switching more current than you should. If you’re using a relay – the relay will change the current required by the light, I usually use a 30 amp relay – small enough to fit almost anywhere but still handle the load. I have a relay that’s about 40 amps if you want, but that’s fine for what you’re trying to do Just because someone does it doesn’t mean it’s the right and proper long-term solution – here’s why Relays were developed. Kevin Click to expand… I don’t know the specs of the fuse box used, but if it has a 15 – 30A relay.

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