Panterra 90cc Atv Wiring Diagram – Voltage regulation is the bee! I got the lights to work but no controller in line… I think I have a game to work on… one of your pictures doesn’t show any more wires from the controller…
But….in the instructions that come with the new tach it doesn’t mention a resistor…it doesn’t show it in the picture either.
Panterra 90cc Atv Wiring Diagram
Yeah… that 73rd picture is bad I need a touch You can see the YEL wire that is connected to the tach One wire on the top right is YEL/BLK and goes to the switch I am sorry. See the VIP icon It is very close Another missing wire is the GR going down
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This is amazing! Thanks for those sixty! I’ve made the connection! Watch it work! The brake switch is on though…I’ll have to see if I can get it to work…I’ll have to find a switch and a dimmer switch that fits lol. But yes, lights, lights, instrument lights and a working tach… actually brakes too! and volts reg connected to it… and everything works… so I guess I should be good and not burn anything?
Hey Jake I’m looking for a wiring diagram for a 1991 700 Cat Cat Mt Cat w/ carb, will be placed on your debit card.
Cat Tamar … 91 ext / el tigre How close will it be? As my father bought this bike and its service manual I can get it….will this help?
Can you give me the wiring diagram for the 1991 X, I have the manual from 1990 to 1998 but it doesn’t show the wiring diagram for the 1991 X.
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Also the 1991 EXT el tigre special and model list doesn’t show a 550, it shows a 92 and I’m pretty sure mine is a 91. Does anyone know why?? Listed in “Leisure World” http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/frame.cg…50-156-1991%29/
I am looking for a schematic for a 79 Jag 275 with an electric starter Is anyone in it?
My entire tach chart comes up and starts It shouldn’t make any difference This is my only picture that doesn’t show resistance I hope this helps I know it says one pin, but the bottom line is you need 2 YEL wires for the tach I have other pictures but they are too small for digitum capture I have to pull it by hand Soon
The only question is what is the “wrong source” black connector that has 2 plugs that look like a compression tube that is placed over the iron and when you remove the cover is the circuit between the two wires? If so, what? They are, I can’t figure it out
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I have a 1990 beast 650 and was wondering if you have any replacement drake shifters where the speedometer cable goes under the clutch assembly and how to replace the 90 degree elbow where the speedometer cable is attached. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi i got a 1973 model year arctic cat panther no starter elec. My brake lights come on, but the tail lights don’t work………….just bang your head on the ground and think what’s wrong?
I hate to bother you but I need a wiring diagram for the 73 440 Elite. The engine runs but no lights or anything, the only thing that works is turning the key on and off.
This is an old thread, you may not find the answer, and you may revive old discussions Please consider creating a new topic Hi I am new to this forum and have done this type of motor repair I work on go-karts and minibikes and many other things and then you go write lol The power supply in the quadrant has 5 wires from the motor There is a solid white string, a solid yellow string, a blue + white string, a green string, and a red + black string. How do I connect all this to the coil and magneto ect. In the picture below? I just wish it had killer, elec. Start, and charge the battery…
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This is the first image I see every time I google 110cc Lifan wiring diagram I hope this helps because it’s so bad on Google! Will try to start my atv using it tomorrow
I only see four CDIs in your published “design”, yet you publish five CDIs These are different animals Don’t start matching your lifestyle because it’s wrong The black/red wire from your stator (you call it the magneto) is the AC power for the ignition going to your CDI, but your picture should not be the CD5 pin to the CD wire going to the CDI.
The CDI image in your “picture” has four pins to confirm that it is a DC powered CD, and with only four pins it *cannot* be a kill switch. I still don’t see 12 volt DC power going in, and I see a dead wire. It’s bad, bad, bad
And there is a *serious* security problem There is no fuse that connects properly to the battery that feeds all the small wires that feed the circuit from the voltage regulator and starter solenoid wires. This is nonsense at the highest level A small battery can short circuit more than 100 amps and a bare wire can catch fire in seconds. Don’t take shortcuts here Put the fuse in line Inexpensive (available at any auto parts store). Whatever you do, don’t skip this step 7 amps – feed everything except the main heavy wire which feeds the starter motor through the solenoid.
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I have changed three items in the list, why do I need to change them? Thanks for stopping by! Could this image be cdi?
The wiring diagram I got looks good, I’ll try to close it tonight
Hooper’s final design is much closer to the original, but still has some issues Here’s a modified image that fixes the problem (click on it for a larger version):
Note how the original design used a 7 amp fuse to start the motor Obviously that won’t work Every time you press the start button you will blow the fuse In the modified diagram, note that the starter motor (the red wire feeds the wire through the hearth to the starter solenoid) and the starter ground (the green wire from the starter motor goes back to the battery negative.), bypass. They have to be heavy duty wires to do 35 amps or more for fuses and that means motor starters. The green and red in the modified diagram should take a very short route, should not touch any other wire, and should be at least #8 strand wire. All other wires are fed through 18 gauge, 7 amp fuses Also note that I put a red “X” on the starter solenoid that separates the old circuit where the whole engine now starts via the fuse. It is released in depression mode so be careful
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The brake switch is used as a safety device I painted it yellow See how you do it There must be 12 volts across the coin start solenoid coil before the solenoid closes and the battery is connected to the starter. For this to happen you need:
3) And the start solenoid coil must be closed (using the start button) to complete the cycle.
The brake switch prevents the quad from starting suddenly You have to brake or there will be no traction This is important for a quad with a center pivot because the motor separates from the wheel at high speeds Think about it… the quad struggles to start, you pull the throttle – try to get it to reach – then it starts seizing. You let the engine rev (yes!) and then pull the clutch and quad clutch (hop) without control – breaking something or someone.
It’s like your car For the same reason you can’t start a car with traffic in the car The consequences can be dire Would you let someone hit you to start driving or stop it because you have a neutral switch? Would you let your inexperienced teenager drive a car like this? We are talking about four children.
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