Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram – Electric bike An important part of an electric bike is the brain of the electric bike, which controls the motor, starts it, and stops it. It is connected to the battery, engine and other electronics such as accelerator, display (speedometer), PAS or other speed sensors.

A controller consists of main circuits (microcontrollers) and peripheral devices (resistors, sensors, MOSFETs, etc.). In general, the controller includes PWM generator circuit, AD circuit, power supply, generator driver, signal reception and processing, and over and under voltage protection circuit.

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

After connecting the battery, the controller supplies the operating voltage to external devices, for example, +5V, head +5V, etc.

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Based on the PWM switching or PAS input, the MOSFET driver circuit generates a pulse waveform corresponding to the driver circuit. The MOSFET driver circuit controls the switching on and off of the MOSFET circuit to control the motor speed.

The low voltage is designed to prevent the battery from charging when the voltage at the PWM circuit’s storage is lower than the controller’s value.

The main function of an electric bicycle is all electronic components (motor, speed sensor, display, battery, motor, etc.).

Most security systems work differently from the controller’s design. Below are some simple precautions.

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1) Over voltage protection. The controller monitors the battery voltage and turns off the motor when the battery voltage is too high. This prevents the battery from overcharging.

2) Low voltage protection. The controller monitors the battery voltage and turns off the motor when the battery voltage is too low. This prevents the battery from charging.

3) Temperature protection. The controller monitors the temperature of the FET (Field Effect Transistor) and shuts down the system if it overheats. FET protects power transistors.

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

4) Overprotection. If the supply current is too high, reduce the current to the motor. this protects the motor and FET power transistors.

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5) Anti-stop. The motor turns off when stopped, even if it receives other signals from the controller at the same time. For example, if the user uses the brake and gas at the same time, the brake function will win.

In general, if the motor has sensors, the controller should be Hall-sensor or dual-type. A Hall sensor on the motor senses the rotation of the motor and the controller outputs the appropriate voltage to the motor based on the signal from the sensor. More stable with less consumption and more starting torque. When the sensor motor is damaged, the dual mode controller will work properly, the sensor control will fail and will not work.

Typically, the peak current is 18A for 6-MOSFET controller, 25A for 9-MOSFET controller, 35A for 12- MOSFET controller, 40A for 15- MOSFET controller, 50A for 18- MOSFET controller.

The wire type and wire terminal (connector) of the electronic wheel controller will be different from other designs. You will need an electric bike electrical connector to properly connect the wires.

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Most e-bike controllers have these wires for the motor, battery, brake, cylinder/cylinder or PAS Pedal Assist system (some controllers have two types of wires, some only have one).

Display or speedometer, three speeds, reverse, LED lights, etc. Advanced Controllers Learn more about how I converted a 3610 Ecotric controller to a CT controller with an 810LED display. The controller can be changed at any time to ensure that the wheel remains the same.

Next, here’s a CT controller similar to the 20A sine wave controller I’m using. You will buy it with LCD display. Although they have the same connector, most use a different plug and the wire and metal color may be different. If you can use a CT controller, you’ll need a 20-inch fat tire that fits the bottom, which will be the smaller 17A and 20A CT controllers.

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

The connectors on the CT controller are swapped so that the bike connector does not touch. I want to buy the next product. This will happen

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These are often sold in male/female pairs, in packs of 5 or more. You can reuse the 3 connectors on the CT controller. explained below.

This job involves cutting the connectors from the CT controller and plugging them into the various parts. This includes electrical skills such as soldering and insulating wires. This requires electrical knowledge because your bike has a high DC voltage. Before doing anything, remove the battery.

The electrical connections should be the same, but if you can’t find the red and black wires, this upgrade is not for you. Power is almost all red and black, sometimes more with a connector or arrow connector like the yellow XT60. You can get two red lines.

You remove the 810LED and its cable. If you bought a new LCD with a CT display, it will be connected immediately. This is a 5 pin connector. I like the LCD3 shown here, but others like the darker color scheme; good job

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These are dark green, blue and yellow with an arrow connector. Along with the axle connectors, you’ll find the same wiring on the Ecotrick and KT controllers. Match and combine colors.

Run 6 wires from the controller to the 6 wire JST using the instructions above as shown in the image below.

When this is plugged into the 6-pin JST Ecotric motor connector, you should see color from the first CT sleeve to the motor. White-white, red-red, black-black, yellow-yellow, green-green, blue-blue.

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

You may have noticed that this link in the ecotrick controller does not use the free position. Fortunately, the Ecotric motor supports high speed white wire, which is not used in the Ecotric controller, but is required for the CT controller.

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As you can see from the CT controller above, these are two-wire plugs. I recommend cutting them and using them as follows. The eco-bike harness uses a male plug for the battery and a female socket for the pedal sensor. The CT controller is different, so the connectors can be changed and the wires can be ordered according to the signal condition.

Some CT controllers provide a third three-pin connector for external measurement. Not pictured above. This is usually a white, red, black wire. If there is, ignore it.

The Ecotric 20 folding fat bike brake is designed for power-off switch, CT controller, but also for power-operated three-wire brake, and there are three pairs. wired JST plugs. Cut these out. Since it is 5 volts, the red wire is well insulated. After connecting the two wires to the 2-pin JST plug. There are two, the same time.

This is what I miss. I was really different. Except for the brake linkage and motor linkage, I kept the CT controller parts the same and changed the PAS and plug connectors on the bike.

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As a source, here’s a description of the CT connectors, along with what Ecotric printed in the owner’s manual for the Ecotric block.

NOTE: This is not a lesson. This is a discussion of how I modified the CT controller. I didn’t do the above because I chose to update the Ecotric device instead of using the controller, so maybe there’s something I’m missing. Ecotrick or CT is not responsible for variations in wire or metal color. I can only explain what happened. Follow at your own risk.

Dude, did you make this mod? My wife’s 20″ has a very fast PAS level 1. Will this mod give you better PAS on the low end?

Pedal Assist Sensor Wiring Diagram

Yes, but instead of changing the new controller, I changed the bike linkage. These are the controls I use.

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I bought it with just the LCD, but the battery (left hand), brake motors and PAS sensor can be added for another $12-14, the only replacement part is the Hall sensor. No speed sensor needed. LCD8 adds color but I haven’t used it.

There are many other controllers and controls that will work, but there aren’t many that fit in the box on the 20A power pedals.

The LCD3 also provides 5 PAS levels

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