Piranha 140cc Wiring Diagram – I’m very excited about my new T-bolt engine. Also bought a 12V regulator from them. I want to run the whole system on 12v
What confuses me is the charging system, the new motor has two yellow leads, one is grounded if I’m not understanding correctly, the other is between the light bulb (does it run AC) and the voltage regulator Share 4 stars. to be –
Piranha 140cc Wiring Diagram
So the voltage regulator has yellow, white, green, and red wires – red to the battery, green to ground, and yellow and white to the stator.
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So do I separate the yellow and light wires and only the yellow wires of the regulator – or both yellow and white?
I tried my best with a 12v switch on K3 with signal. In the end what I realized was that the flash and the bulb, the buzzer and the battery were 6v. Lighting and CDI are very important to me and I don’t have the time and $ to spend on those even though I have 12v coils. I got a full look under my seat because I installed the CDI under the battery case.
I haven’t made the DC headlight yet, but I think it will take care of the idle time light. It will remain on when there is a stop sign/light.
Did you ever understand that? I followed Dratv’s instructions and couldn’t charge the battery. I used her parts mentioned in this link… I did gold to yellow, yellow to white (on her belt), green to green, etc.
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I use my stock harness on the k3. After replacing the carburetor with a vm26, the bike runs great, the carburetor has a bit left… but it sure runs great!
If there are two yellows, drop one yellow and forget about it. Next, disconnect the second yellow connection between the yellow stock harness wire, yellow on the rectifier and green on the rectifier. The second argument is green. The last wire on the rectifier should be the red wire going into the stock harness ball connector that connects to the orange two plate rectifier.
Not sure what debugger you have. I bought a DRATV and it comes in two colors green, yellow and red. If you say you have a white, use the remaining yellow and grind for your green.
I said: if you can figure out the wiring diagram, this is the one I use with the yx140 (same piranha), not sure if you have two yellows from the motor or one white and yellow. If there are two yellows, drop one yellow and forget about it. Next, disconnect the second yellow connection between the yellow stock harness wire, yellow on the rectifier and green on the rectifier. The second argument is green. The last wire on the rectifier should be the red wire going into the stock harness ball connector that connects to the orange two plate rectifier. Not sure what debugger you have. I bought a DRATV and it comes in two colors green, yellow and red. If you say you have a white, use the remaining yellow and grind for your green. See attachment 236569 Click to expand… I have two yellow wires.
Piranha 140 Into Ct70
I’m pretty sure I did what you mentioned outside of the second yellow. I think the white wire in the Dario Subarus led to the green wire when plugged into the original Honda harness it was grounded.
I connected a rectifier that regulates from dratv converting 12v to 6v as described in that link a yellow wire from that rectifier splits into a yellow wire going to the yellow wire from the motor. I’m pretty Syrian I did what you did except ground the second yellow wire directly. How to ground the second yellow wire? Can you take a look at the Dratv site link I put in the first post to see if it matches what you said? And I’ll print out your schematic and see it below the wire on my bike.
Have you drilled the green part directly into the terminal block and screwed the ball joint into the stock frame? The yellow you can simply split into yellow comes from the DRATV auxiliary harness you’re using so anywhere, before or after the connector connecting to the neck harness, sounds like what you did. Now I’m talking yellow from the motor literally, use a yellow from the motor and connect it to yellow from the DRATV sub-harvest, yellow from the rectifier harness and white from the miner DRATV sub-department. So that’s 3 connected to a single motor. The white wire goes into the stock harness and out of the green ball joint goes into the reactor rail, it’s not grounded. Yes, you must hold another cup. If you want, you can simply split it into the green wire coming from the Dratv auxiliary harness. Hope that’s a bit clearer. If you are using 6v or 12v, wiring only with a 6v rectifier/regulator instead of 12v.
Yes, I soldered the green paint directly to the terminal end and bolted the ball joint to the stock frame. I hooked the yellow in the DRATV aux charger down through the motor connector. Obviously I got that part right!
Ct70 K0 Wiring Issue
Now the yellow ones are where I don’t think it’s right. I’ll make another bulb to connect the yellow wire to the motor case no problem.
The rest of the wires are yellow – I have now connected the yellow to the Suburbans, then I cut the yellow of the Suburbans and put the regulator’s yellow wire in there – so that 2 of the 3 connections needed are achieved. I didn’t connect it to the white wire of the DRATV harness. So I have to separate one of the yellow wires from the motor (which I don’t ground to the motor box) and connect it to the yellow subarunis wire (also separate the yellow rectifier wire and make 2 of the wires yellow DRATV harness 3 connections) and white storage wire.
Now another stupid question maybe what do you use to split that yellow wire? Use a dual bullet connector on the pole and then make two wires in the DRatv harness? Or is there an easier way?
Well, now you are on the right track. Just connect the white to the rest of the yellow and you’re good to go. It’s hard to figure out how to separate the wires, I made my own complete harness with solder connections and molex connectors but you can cut and solder the white wire to the yellow wire and then solder the ball connector back. with two wires. You can do for 2into1. To make a connection or use a simple piece of wire like this
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Okay, I think it did! I took a female ball coupler from another harness and attached a male ball to it then the male end to the yellow motor wire (female). Run two wires as connections from the yellow motor to the yellow and white sockets. Then I got the second one, although I need to find a better place to put it, on the frame where the top tip of the airbox will be attached to the frame.
Initial testing was very positive. On startup I get about 8v in the battery terminal. For a while it will go up to about 7v. Going back to 7v high in 5 minutes where we used to go to 5v high in 5 minutes. Need to ride more because it’s raining tonight but I’m so excited.
I spoke to DRATV and he said that the headlights should not be off the battery but when I ignite in the third position (the light) but with the engine off and not running my lights come on…
What is your headlight dimmer switch plugged into the headlight barrel? A brown wire is required to be connected to a glossy brown double coupling. Make sure that the red wire is not plugged into the ball connector.
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I said: To which headlight barrel is your headlight dimmer switch connected? A brown wire is required to be connected to a glossy brown double coupling. Make sure that the red wire is not plugged into the ball connector. Click to expand… There are two brown/red wires connected to the brown/red dual bullet connector. The 3 red wires are soldered to the red tri connector. I have attached an image but the website does not allow me.
See wiring diagram for one
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